Most people associate Louisiana cuisine with gumbo, jambalaya and red beans with rice. White beans tend to be somewhat overshadowed, but they are just as common in households across the South: slow-cooked with smoked sausage, served with or without rice. They are closely related to red beans and are prepared in almost exactly the same way, only with less liquid, resulting in a thick, almost creamy stew.
Cajun cuisine traces its origins back to the Acadians, French settlers in Nova Scotia who were expelled between 1755 and 1764 and settled in southern Louisiana from the 1760s onwards. They brought their French culinary traditions with them and adapted them to the local produce that was grown and available. Thus, the French ‘mirepoix’ (onion, carrot, celery) became the ‘Holy Trinity’ of onion, green pepper and celery. To this day, it remains the basis of almost every savoury Cajun dish.
Another typical feature is the stew principle: a heavy pot, simple ingredients, a long cooking time, served with rice. Beans were ideal for this – cheap, filling and with a long shelf life.
Andouille also contributes to the dish’s distinctive flavour. The French sausage of the same name is made from offal, whereas the Louisiana variety is a strongly spiced, smoked pork sausage that traces its origins back to French and German immigrants. Together with a little bacon, it imparts a smoky flavour, richness and spice to the beans. If you want even more depth of flavour, cook a piece of smoked pork on the bone alongside the beans – in Louisiana, this is often a ham hock.
Today we’re cooking a brined, smoked pork knuckle; to do this, we’re leaving out the bacon, as that would be too much meat for our taste. If you can’t get hold of any andouille, use kolbasz or a similar type of sausage.
The key ingredient is the spice mix, which is best made from scratch using the individual ingredients. This way, you can control the heat and smokiness yourself. Salt is often added to the mix, but we advise against this. It’s much easier to season to taste when adding salt separately, and ingredients such as andouille, bacon or pork knuckle already contain plenty of salt.
Our blend consists of sweet and smoked paprika, garlic and onion powder, black and white pepper, cayenne, thyme and oregano. It will keep for several months in a screw-top jar. Tip: if you want to cook without meat, use only smoked paprika.
Soak the beans overnight, then drain off the soaking water. In the USA, Great Northern Beans would be used; Cannellini beans are very similar. After soaking for at least 12 hours – preferably 24 – they take about 1.5 to 2 hours to cook.
First, fry the sliced andouille in a heavy saucepan over a medium-high heat in neutral oil until it browns. If you wish to use bacon, you can start with that and fry the sausage in the fat that renders from it.
The sausage is removed. It is replaced by the diced Trinity, which is left to fry for 8 to 10 minutes until soft and lightly browned. The flavours released during frying form the basis of the dish. Finally, chopped garlic is added and cooked briefly.
Now add the spice mixture to the pan and fry it in the hot fat for 30 to 60 seconds until it becomes fragrant. This is the most important step, as it allows the flavours to develop much more intensely than if you were to stir the mixture into the liquid later. Then deglaze with white wine and reduce until almost syrupy. The wine adds acidity and depth and is a small nod to the French heritage of this cuisine.
Next, add the drained beans to the saucepan, along with the sausage and/or bacon, bay leaf, thyme and enough water – or, better still, chicken stock – to cover the beans well. If you’re using smoked pork knuckle, add it to the saucepan at this stage too. Bring to the boil and cook for 10 minutes at a rolling boil to break down the hardly digestible phasin contained in the beans.
After that, reduce the heat and leave the stew to simmer gently over a low flame with the lid on. Stir only occasionally, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pot so that nothing catches. Add a little liquid if necessary. Let it simmer in this way until the beans are tender and the cooking liquid has reduced to a rich, thick consistency. Allow at least two hours for this stage; a longer cooking time will do no harm. If you have cooked a ham hock with the stew, remove it at this point. The bone should now pull out easily. Shred the tender meat, chop it, and return it to the beans.
Finally, you can mash a few of the beans against the side of the pot, which will make the stew even creamier. Only at this stage should you season with salt, and then only if any is needed.
Serve generously sprinkled with fresh parsley and, if you like, over hot rice. Season to taste at the table with a few dashes of hot sauce, such as Tabasco.
Enjoy.
And may the taste be with you.
Ingredients (for 4 people):
Cajun seasoning blend (makes enough for several batches; use about 1½ tbsp per dish):
2 tbsp sweet paprika
1 tbsp smoked paprika
2 tsp garlic powder
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp white pepper
1-2 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp dried thyme
2 tsp dried oregano
Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight container. Use approximately 1½ tablespoons of the seasoning blend per dish, adjusting to taste.
Stew:
330 g dried cannellini beans, soaked overnight
70 g diced bacon (or a smoked ham hock)
300 g Andouille sausage, sliced
A little neutral oil, for frying
1 medium onion
1 green pepper
2-3 celery stalks
3 garlic cloves
1½ tbsp Cajun seasoning blend
100 ml dry white wine
2 bay leaves
2-3 sprigs fresh thyme
About 800 ml water or chicken stock
Salt, to taste
1 bunch fresh parsley, chopped, for serving
Optional: hot sauce or Tabasco, to serve
