Couscous

In Morocco, ‘couscous’ refers to the entire dish – meat and vegetables in broth, served on steamed semolina – not just the grain side dish. What is known as ‘couscous’ outside North Africa is called ‘smida’ in Morocco, and the word ‘couscous’ itself is derived from the Berber word ‘keskas’ – the name for the couscoussière, that wide pot with a steaming insert, in which meat and vegetables simmer in the broth whilst the grains cook above in the rising steam and absorb its flavours.

Traditionally, smida is made from scratch: durum wheat semolina is sprinkled with water, rolled into tiny balls by hand, dusted with flour, sifted and finally steamed. What we buy in the shop, however, is instant couscous – pre-cooked and then dried for storage.

You can prepare it quickly by following the instructions on the packet: simply pour a specified amount of hot water over it and leave it to stand. Unfortunately, it hydrates unevenly and becomes sticky.

We therefore explain the traditional method of steaming in several stages with intermittent loosening, which is considerably more labour-intensive but is the only way to ensure that the grains arrive on the plate truly light, dry and separate from one another.

If you don’t have a Couscoussière (like us), you’ll need a fine-mesh sieve and a saucepan that’s just as wide as it is. You’ll also need one or two tea towels and a large bowl. The ingredients are only (instant) couscous, water, salt and butter (Vegans use vegan butter or vegetable oil).

Smida, by the way, is not the same as bulgur, with which it is sometimes confused. Bulgur is cooked, dried and coarsely ground wheat – the whole grain, including the bran and germ, rich in nutrients and with a nutty, slightly earthy flavour of its own. Smida, on the other hand, consists of durum wheat semolina, i.e. the bran without the husk, which is shaped into small balls with water and then steamed and dried.

Place the couscous in the bowl, evenly sprinkle over a good third of the salted water and mix immediately by rubbing the grains together with the palms of your hands until there are no lumps left. Then leave to stand for ten minutes.

Bring some water to the boil in a saucepan. The water must not reach the top of the sieve. Loosely pour the couscous into the sieve – do not press it down – and steam it uncovered for about twenty minutes. The steam must rise clearly through the grains; it is best to seal the rim with a tea towel to prevent the steam from escaping from the sides.

Return the couscous to the bowl, spread it out, and scatter the first portion of butter in small pieces over the hot couscous, then mix until it is completely absorbed.

Then work in a second portion of salted water as before. Leave to rest for another ten minutes. Place back in the sieve and steam for a further twenty minutes.

Spread out again, work in the rest of the butter, work in the final portion of water, and leave to rest for five minutes.

Steam for a final 15 to 20 minutes. The couscous is now perfectly fluffy, has a wonderful aroma and no grains are sticking together.

Enjoy.

And may the taste be with you.

P.S.: If that’s too much work for you, reduce the three steps to two. If even that’s too much work, carry out all the steps in the sieve, using a fork instead of your hands. Sometimes away from the pot and the steam, and sometimes over it. It’s all much better than instant couscous. If you really don’t have any time, prepare the couscous according to the instructions on the packet first, but then take a few minutes to work in a little butter (or oil) and separate the grains as much as possible.

Ingredients (for 4 people as a side dish):

320 g couscous, medium grain

200 ml cold water (added in three stages: approx. 75 ml, 75 ml and 50 ml)

Just under 1 tsp fine salt, dissolved in the water

50 g butter, in pieces (approx. 35 g after the first steaming and 15 g after the second)